After our 2 day “American” respite and rallying the troops to continue, we left the state of Tamaulipas and entered the state of Veracruz. According to my research, which so far had not panned out well, this state was hit less hard by the drug wars and the corresponding military action. So I was hopeful. Our destination — Poza Rica (POWZ-ah REEK-ah) and Papantla (paw-PAWNT-lah).
Our goal was to stay at the Poza Rica Inn which, according to my guide books, was an upscale hotel that also had a campground. As it turned out, there were no other campers in the campground so we opted for more security & comfort by staying in the hotel itself. The hotel was actually quite lovely and was frequented by tourists from all over the world so it was not difficult to communicate.
Truth be told, I fell in love with the city of Poza Rica. There was just something about the everyday hustle & bustle of this place. Being fairly young (established in 1951), the buildings had a distinctive contemporary flair giving the city an overall modern feel. Like Tampico, Poza Rica is an oil town but it didn’t feel industrialized in the way Tampico did. It is also set in a beautiful, albeit very hot & humid, portion of Mexico along the River Cazones.
At the hotel, we actually started to run into other people. I know that sounds strange but since entering Mexico, we felt like we were the only tourists. We longed to meet other RVers along the way but so far that was not the case. At the hotel, the majority of people we ran into were business travelers rather than RVers or vacationers but at least there were other visitors.
The hotel felt like many resort hotels in America yet was decidedly a Mexican-hotel unlike our Holiday Inn experience in Tampico. It had a bustling upscale restaurant with a trained chef, who was probably trained in the 60s & 70s, but trained nonetheless.
While staying, we visited El Tajín, an archaeological site in the neighboring city of Papantla. We learned this site was made a World Heritage site back in 1992 due to its historic significance and architecture. It is also an active archaeological site where many archaeologists continue to uncover additional ruins including multiple ball courts. The Pyramid of the Niches is the most well-known monument but the site also includes Arroyo Group, 2 major ballcourts to the north & south, and Tajín Chico (palace).
We opted for an English-speaking tour guide so we could get the most out of our first of such sites. I am so glad we did as Fernando, our guide, was amazing. Not only did he give us a great tour but he also told us about several other places we should visit! Here are just a few things we learned about this incredible site…
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It is believed the El Tajín was occupied as early as 5600 B.C. by nomadic hunters & gatherers who later became farmers.
- The city’s name came from the Totonac rain god which is really 12 old men (Tajín) who wer e considered lords of thunderstorms.
- The city’s architecture was influenced by the Teotihuacan which was known for stepped pyramids but was also influenced by both the Mayan and Oaxacan cultures.
- The Pyramid of the Niches dominates the southern portion of the city with Tajín Chico dominating the newer, northern portion.
- The pyramids and other buildings were decorated with brightly painted relief carvings that have long since faded yet remain intact.
- There are over 20 ballcourts (with 3 being discovered in 2013) which has led many historians to believe this was a spot for great sporting events similar to the Greek Olympics.
- Human sacrifices are depicted in many of the relief carvings many of which relate to the ball tournaments.
- El Tajín was a major influence and prospered until the early 13th century when it was destroyed by fire.
- After the fire, the city was abandoned and became covered by the surrounding jungle until the top of the Pyramid of Niches was accidentally discovered.
- The Pyramid of Niches was the first building unearthed in the 1938 and later 77 acres were cleared revealing more buildings, the ballcourts and part of Tajín Chico.
- Today, it’s believed that only half of the El Tajín sites has been uncovered.
After our tour, we were treated to an ancient Mesoamerican ceremony known as the Danza de los Voladores (Dance of the Flyers). This dance ritual consists of 4-5 Voladores climbing a 30-meter pole and subsequently launching themselves off while tied by their ankles. As they twirl to the ground, the lead Voladore sits atop the pole and plays a ritual drum & flute solo. It is said the ritual was created to ask the gods to end a severe drought. Although the ritual did not originate with the Totonac people, it is strongly associated with them.